FAQs about Ski Gloves

You should make a buying decision based on the environment, predominant weather pattern where you are planning to ski, your cold tolerances, personal style and budget. See our page How to Choose Ski Gloves | How to Buy

Quality of construction, warmth level (amount of insulation), and the price. See our Ski Glove Buyer's Guide

Mittens give away a bit of dexterity but offer more flexibility in a range of temperatures. They are almost always warmer as your fingers together retain a lot more heat. Gloves will have better dexterity and be more versatile in terms of activities. See our Gloves versus Mittens Guide

Mittens properly-sized will be warmer than properly-sized gloves with the same set of materials used to make them (same outer material and liner used). Mittens keep your fingers together, generating and/or retaining more body heat.

There are an infinite number of design and material differences between ski gloves. The primary differences are the number of fingers: standard 5-finger gloves, 3-finger “trigger” gloves or pocket mittens. The second difference is the materials: synthetics made from chemicals or natural materials made from animals (leather). Learn more

The primary design concept of lobster gloves is the dexterity in the index finger. They are not as warm as a dedicated pocket mitten. Some people love the lobster as a perfect middle ground between a mitten and glove, and some find the lobster to be a failed experiment for them in very cold conditions when that isolated index finger goes cold, same as a five finger glove.

A glove designed with a longer, wider cuff that is worn over jacket sleeves (cuffs). See our page on Long Cuff V. Short Cuff

A gauntlet is a longer cuff that is wider, designed to go over the sleeve of your jacket. An undercuff is designed to fit under the sleeve or cuff of your jacket.

That depends on the type of gloves you have. Long cuff (gauntlet-style) gloves are designed to go over the end of your coat sleeves. Short cuff gloves can either go under the cuff or sleeves or you can just choose to have the cuff butt up against the end of the sleeves. Knit wrist gloves simply compress and bunch up, or go under.

They are less bulky, they can be worn under the sleeve of your jacket, they provide more wrist mobility, they are more packable, they may be even more fashionable.

They seal out the outside environment, they are easier to take on/off, they are more temperature versatile, and they have a bolder appearance.

Removable liners increase versatility – they can be exchanged with other liners, removed for faster drying or machine washed, and they can be used by themselves as an effective second pair of light mittens/gloves. Learn more

That depends upon the design and materials. The liners must be smaller than the shells (but not too much), and have low friction material on the outside of the liner. It is also essential that the liners are affixed to the shell with hook and loop material (Velcro). You should always test them in the store or at home before opting to keep and wear them out and about.

Yes, if you are buying gloves with removable liners. The extra liner is the best protection for wet days and sweaty hands, giving you the ability to swap out soggy liners and/or have a fresh pair for first chair the next morning.

Wear mittens that breathe exceptionally well and have above standard insulation, and do not separate your fingers. You don’t need “water-proof” gloves unless it’s wet. And it’s usually not wet when it’s really cold. Learn more

It is supposed to increase dexterity. But you give up a lot of warmth for slightly better dexterity. This defeats the purpose of a mitten.

Synthetic dense, "thin" insulation because it's really warm when compressed and it remains warm when wet. Lofty insulation is compromised when either of these factors is present. Learn more

Grams per square meter of the insulation that is used in the construction of that glove. If gloves use different types of insulation, then the same amount of GSM (number) have different levels of warmth. So a glove with “100 grams” might be warmer than one that is advertised as having “150 grams.”

That depends on the design and materials. The more insulation and breathable a ski glove is, the warmer it will be in sub-freezing temperatures. Learn more

If you have ski gloves that are not warm enough. A better plan is to buy mittens that have adequate (above standard market level) insulation.

One that balances wetness protection from the external environment, the weather, and the internal environment of the glove -sweat. The more protection from the outside, the less protection from the inside. A highly breathable ski glove with a removable liner will maximize the time your hands stay dry.

Waterproof membranes decrease the breathability of a glove and will trap perspiration wetness on the hands. If it’s warm and wet, your hands might stay drier for a bit longer. But a membraned glove will absolutely still eventually wet through.

This depends on the wetness of the environment, temperature, and your activity level. Skiing and snowboarding being winter activities, it is usually pretty cold outside. And most ski days, it is not wet, so a primary focus on wetness protection from the external environment doesn't make much sense for an everyday ski glove. Gore-Tex will only buy some time from the wetness on those warmer wet days.

They are much more comfortable – your hands stay drier and warmer for longer. It significantly reduces hand sweating and improves dexterity.

If your hands get cold easily and the batteries don’t run out of power, then yes. The problem is the second part. Batteries always seem to run out at inopportune, unpredictable times. Read more

That depends on how you use them. If you frequently take your gloves off while skiing, riding chairlifts or during backcountry/climbing activities, then thin liner gloves may be a great addition to your glove wearing strategy. But note, the liners may decrease the warmth that you paid so much to get, by decreasing circulation in your hands from the liner compressing on your skin.

Most manufacturers will have a sizing chart based upon the circumference of the palm of your hand. See our page on Sizing

You measure the circumference of the palm of your hand with a tape measure.

Glove sizing is very personal to the individual. Some people like gloves that are roomy and big, and others like gloves that are snug when new and not yet broken in. Generally speaking, snug fitting gloves that are new will break in more for a more custom-like fit. Roomier gloves will break in less and be a bit warmer, from having more space around your hand which fosters circulation.

Yes, if you want to increase the warmth of your gloves. Sizing up makes your gloves warmer by increasing the air flow, which often improves the circulation in your hands.

Sizing is very personal. But I will say - if they are somewhat difficult to put on and your hands get cold easily then they are too small. It’s better to be too big than too small. Uncertainty of sizing should lean heavily toward the larger size.

This is very personal. But I will say, if you have more than a half inch in front of your fingers and your dexterity is noticeably compromised, then the gloves are too big.

Yes, almost always. More space around your hand and fingers will increase the gloves breathability and will increase the blood circulation in your hands.

As a general rule, you have to wear ski gloves in order to break them in. You can expedite the process by treating the leather with conditioner and baking them in the oven for a short period of time, making sure to be careful that you do not damage the gloves. For more information see our page on Ski Glove Care

Tight fit decrease circulation and cause cold hands. If you spent all the money to buy heated gloves, then your primary problem is cold hands. Don’t sweat sizing and size up.

Use mild soap and lukewarm water, and air dry them slowly. Start with a soapy rag and clean the outside. If that is not enough than you can move on to submerging them and agitating them manually. If that is not enough, use a washing machine on gentle / delicate cycle. When done, treat with a leather conditioner if they are leather.

Yes, here are the instructions:
1) Set the washing machine to the gentle cycle with cold water.
2) Pour in a light amount of mild detergent based on the size of the total load.
3) Wash with like material and color. Avoid washing with rough materials.
4) Air dry or use low heat in the dryer for short period of time. Hang them up to finish.

Air dry at room temperature after every use. Do not use clothes dryers, heaters, open flames, or radiators. Stand your gloves up in a manner that allows air to rise into them. If they have removable liners, then separate the liner and shell for faster drying.

Yes. If they are made of leather it is essential to maximize performance and durability.

Leather treatment should be used regularly when the leather is exposed to wet/dry cycles or it will become noticeably dry (usually 2-3 times per winter). This will also enhance water-resistance.

One that adds essential moisture to the leather and enhances its water-resistance without degrading the leather. Look for one that has chemical-free all natural carrier oils, beeswax and lanolin. Learn more

If your purpose is to seal the leather from outside moisture, but note: it will take away the leather’s original texture, make it more rigid, and less breathable. There are other options that do not have these drawbacks, such as those made from beeswax and oil mixtures.

In a cool, dry place.

For durability and performance, ski gloves should be made from quality soft leather and water-proof, breathable softshell. See our page on Ski Glove Design

That depends on the quality and thickness of the leather, how hard you use them, and how well you take care of them. See our page on Leather Ski Gloves

Three types of leather are most common: cowhide, goatskin and deerskin. Deerskin is the softest and most dexterous, but lacks durability. Goatskin trades a bit of softness for toughness. And cowhide is the toughest and most variable in quality. It can range from super tough and soft, to thinner and more rigid.

That depends on the leather. Gloves treated heavily / sealed with chemicals may be rigid and may not stretch at all. Soft, natural leather will stretch. Read more

Yes. Darker colors absorb more heat. They are also generally more water-resistant because of the pore clogging dye.

Probably yes - if they have the same insulation levels. The leather will trap more heat while the synthetics will likely breathe better, making them more temperature versatile. The all leather will most likely be thicker and tougher than most synthetics, and the stitching will be less likely to pull out over time.

It depends. Hard shell is usually tougher and will probably be more water-resistant. Softshell is more breathable so it will have better temperature versatility. Better quality softshell material is the best option overall.

The material on the back of the thumb. It is made of soft material such as fleece, microfiber or suede.

A glove that strikes the best balance between warmth and dexterity for the demands that you place upon them. For both warmth and dexterity, the best design consists of stretchable materials that conform to your hand - including materials such as soft leather, all-breathable materials, dense insulation, and efficient cuff design. Learn more

Soft cowhide that does not use strong water-repellent chemicals.

Yes. “Water-proof” membranes decrease the breathability of a glove, leading to more hand sweat, compromising dexterity / grip. Plus the extra layer puts plastic between the liner and shell, adding bulk to the gloves.

Thin, dense insulation (examples - Thinsulate®, Thermolite®) allow the gloves to be less bulky while retaining excellent warmth. Lofty insulation makes your hands feel like they’re floating inside the glove.

Not necessarily. Mittens that have soft leather palms, a moderate level of insulation and are sized-down can be surprisingly dexterous. Your humble ski glove designer here backcountry skis almost every day in mittens, and I have no issues manipulating climbing skins and all of my other gear. I designed mittens specifically for this purpose.

Both can have excellent dexterity and grip, but short-cuffs that employ an over-sized hook & loop (Velcro®) closure are best. The better the glove grips your wrist, the less the palm moves.

That depends on how you use them. If you frequently take them off while skiing, on the chairlift or during backcountry / climbing activities, then thin liner gloves may be a great addition to your glove wearing strategy. As for using them as an extra layer for warmth, then perhaps you should buy thicker, warmer gloves. They may just compress on your skin, decreasing circulation, and lead to colder hands.

That depends on your cold tolerance and the weather in which you plan to wear them. If your hands run warm and it’s relatively dry outside, then they work fine. Most have little water-proofing and not very much insulation. And their style is mostly confined to simple "work glove" designs.

Around 6000 BC, as a practical means of winter transportation, in Northern Europe/Scandinavia in what is now Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. But common sense says that we’ve been using “skis” on our feet to move across snow since humans existed in snowy places. See our page History of Skiing

Mostly in China, Vietnam and Pakistan. There is very little production in the US or even Europe anymore.

For all the information that you could possibly want see our Ski Glove Buyer's Guide